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Travel with Big Red

Our first stop was the Pala where winter still reigned. We found ourselves walking on snow amongst swirling cloud and mist. Via ferratas were inaccessible after the unusually heavy winter snowfalls and cool spring temperatures.

From our campsite under M Pelmo, with views of M Civetta, we explored the valleys from Agordo to Alleghe and on to Arraba, in the footsteps of 19th century traveller Amelia Bernard. I was briefly locked in the church at Agordo, which was ironic given Ameliaís low opinion of the place!!

We had two trips to M Rite, hoping for good drawing weather - excellent views of Pelmo and Antelau on a good day(!) - but the cloud was persistent. Messnerís mountain museum on the top of the mountain was a revelation however, a fascinating history of mountaineers, artists and travellers in the Dolomites. No mention of Amelia though! Lots of food for thought and some exquisite original watercolours by E Harrison Compton, the plant hunter Reginald Farrerís travelling companion. (Sketch(bottom r): watercolour of Antelau from Mt Rite)

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